I have one of those huge, chaotic families that are impossible to describe to someone else. And tomorrow, we’re all gathering, (outdoors, under marquees), for Christmas lunch. This year, my contributions to the table nearly all come from the garden, one way or another – icecreams made with real egg custard, passionfruit for the pav and the punch, green salad, rosemary oil sourdough crackers, and this seafood sauce.